Carstensz Pyramid /Puncak Jaya is one of the more demanding climbs in one version of the Seven Summits, despite having the lowest elevation. It is held to have the highest technical rating, though not the greatest physical demands of that list's ascents.The standard route to climb the peak from its base camp is up the north face and along the summit ridge, which is all hard rock surface. Despite the large mine, the area is highly inaccessible to hikers and the general public. The standard route to access base camp as of 2013 is to fly into the nearest major town with an airport, Timika, and then take a small aircraft over the mountain range and onto an unimproved runway at one of the local villages far down from the peak. It is then typically a five-day hike via the Jungle route to the base camp through very dense jungle and with regular rainfall, making the approach probably the "most miserable" of the Seven Summits. Rain during most days of the hike inbound and out are not uncommon. Unlike the other Seven Summits, if one sustains an injury on the inbound hike, there is little or no ability to get rescued via helicopter. Anyone injured must evacuate by foot over very difficult and slippery terrain.The descent from the peak's base camp can take three to four days. Anecdotally, it appears most injuries occur during the descent due to a combination of exhaustion and difficulty controlling hiking speed on the wet and slippery terrain.
Climbing history:In 1936 the Dutch Carstensz Expedition, unable to establish definitively which of the three summits was the highest, attempted to climb each. Anton Colijn, Jean Jacques Dozy and Frits Wissel reached both the glacier covered East Carstensz and Ngga Pulu summits on December 5, but through bad weather failed in their attempts to climb the bare Carstensz Pyramid. Because of extensive snow melt Ngga Pulu has become a 4,862m subsidiary peak, but it has been estimated that in 1936 (when glaciers still covered 13 km of the mountain. Ngga Pulu was indeed the highest summit, reaching over 4,900m.The now-highest Carstensz Pyramid summit was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer with three other expedition members. When Indonesia took control of the province in 1963, the peak was renamed 'Poentja Soekarno' (Simplified Indonesian: Puncak Sukarno) or Sukarno Peak, after the first President of Indonesia; later this was changed to Puncak Jaya. Puncak means peak or mountain and Jaya means 'victory', 'victorious' or 'glorious'. The name Carstensz Pyramid is still used among mountaineers.
Peak: Carstensz Pyramid Peak
Speciality: Highest Peak of Oceania
Trip time: 2020-October-21-29
Leader: Mingma G
Day 1. Arrive Denpasar (Bali) before 3 PM
Day 2. Arrive in Timika, Western Papua. Overnight in hotel
Day 3. Early morning helicopter flight to Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp (4,200m/13,779ft)
Day 4. Acclimatisation day
Day 5. Summit climb on Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m/16,023ft)
Day 6. Spare summit day or hike to Glacier near East Carstensz Peak
Day 7. Fly from Base Camp to Timika
Day 8. Contingency day for flight delays
Day 9. Flight back to Denpasar, Bali. Trip ends
- Airport pick up and transfer to the hotel upon arrival in Bali
- Helicopter flight from Timika to Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp
- 2 nights Accommodation (Double occupancy) in Bali before and after the climb
- All meals during our program
- All meals on the expedition after departing Bali until return to Bali
- Tents, ropes, and other group climbing equipment
- All expedition logistics including climbing and trekking permits
- All expedition staff including Nepalese Mountain Guide and local support staff
- 2 nights accommodation and meals in Papua
- Transportation of 15kg personal equipment from Timika to Base Camp by helicopter.
- International Air travel to and from Denpasar, Indonesia
- Indonesian Tourist visa charges
- Personal climbing and travelling equipment
- Alcoholic beverages
- Personal travel insurance, trip cancellation insurance and medical or security evacuation insurance
- Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
- Overweight baggage charges on the flight to / from Bali – Timika
- Any costs due to flight delays/cancellations.
- Additional Helicopters Charters.
- Accommodation in Bali, beyond the 2 nights
- Accommodation in Papua, beyond the 2 nights
- Costs for delays that are beyond the control of the expedition
- Tips to staffs
Carstensz Pyramid Team in 2019